The SAS Siege is one of the best bows on the market for adults who are looking to make a decent investment in a bow that will last them a while. The bow is not too expensive and gets the job done well. It’s not a starter bow for kids because the draw weight is too heavy, but once they are able to handle a forty-pound bow, it’s an excellent bow for any age.
Precision and Power
With a fifty-five-pound draw weight, the SAS Siege is a pretty powerful bow. Most report that they’re able to hit targets as far as fifty meters without a lot of effort, and it’s pretty precise. This helps the shooter to develop their skill in aiming and shooting at the target more precisely. In addition, the sight is accurate. Shooters don’t need to tweak it because it’s pretty accurate right out of the box. Once the Siege is assembled, which only takes a few moments, the bow is ready to shoot.
Weight and Size
The bow is just about four and a half pounds, which is pretty light for this powerful of a bow. The size is around forty-one and a half inches AtA, and the draw length is twenty-nine inches so it’s not too hard to use. Once you get the hang of it, you can shoot arrows without too much effort. The let-off will relieve most of the weight and tension, which will allow the shooter to shoot further without feeling tired after a few shots.
The shooter can also easily aim and shoot the target without feeling rushed because the draw weight isn’t too heavy and the cams will relieve most of the tension. They’re also good when muting the noise, and reducing the vibration on and after the release of the arrow.
Speed
As for speed, the compound bow can allow you to shoot an arrow at 206 FPS. That’s pretty fast, considering it’s a compound and not a crossbow. This makes it an excellent choice for those who like to go outdoor hunting because there’s a greater chance of success at catching game because the arrow travels relatively fast, preventing the target from moving too much before it makes its entry. The optimal speed and force of your arrow can be attained by adjusting the draw weight of the bow. The shooter just has to loosen or tighten the bolt in order to increase or decrease the draw weight, which affects the energy that’s stored in the arrow when the bow’s pulled.
Accessories
Another excellent point to this bow is that there are plenty of awesome accessories that come with it. It comes with an accurate sight and a five-spot paper target out of the box to use for practice. The only thing you might want to consider purchasing is a new set of thirty-inch arrows and you’re all set!
You don’t have to have a lot of accessories to use this because it’s already well set up. The grip is excellent and the sight is accurate. You might want to purchase some spare strings if you plan on hunting with it to be sure that you don’t run out. Many report that they don’t worry about the strings snapping because they’ve had the bow for months and nothing of the sort has happened.
In Conclusion
If you’re looking for a relatively low-cost bow with performance that’s comparable to the more expensive compound bow choices, the SAS Siege is the bow you want to look for. The precision is commendable and this bow fits almost anyone who’s looking to learn or hunt.
This bow is great for those who want to improve their skills. It’s not only designed for practice, but it’s also usable for hunting, too. Therefore, you can be sure that it’s sturdy enough to withstand just about any abuse and use for a long time.
The Bear Apprentice is a very versatile bow that just about anyone can learn to use. It’s universal and has adjustability that’s great for youths all the way up to small-framed men and women. It will grow with the young shooters due to the range of adjustability, and its lightweight, which is an important aspect for the young kids. The draw length is very easily adjusted and there is no bow press required, and the best part is that it’s of excellent value for the money!
It has a sleek, modern design, an improved grip design, a new string suppression system, and an adjustable draw length. The bow can be ordered in two colors, Realtree APG and pink camouflage. These colors will allow you to choose one for either a son or a daughter.
Riser/Limbs
This bow is an excellent choice for a child with its 27.5-inch AtA. It’s great for shorter kids and is fine for any taller children, too. Another benefit for the young kids is that this bow is only 2.9 pounds. There are some stronger kids that might feel steadier with some additional weight in a bow, which can be added with some stabilizers. The new riser on this Apprentice looks excellent. It has a tubular look with edges that are much more round. The riser has a similar look to the other Bear Company’s bows. There’s a stabilizer bushing secured to the riser. Another great feature is the integrated string stop that comes standard on the Bear Apprentice. This is definitely an attractive improvement that cuts out vibration and noise.
The Bear Flared Quad Limbs are split so they do an amazing job. They help produce a brace height of six inches. This combination makes for plenty of energy for a youth bow at any draw length. The Zero Tolerance Limb Pockets attach the limbs to the riser and help reduce the shock. The tiny amount of hand shock that this bow has can be improved with a stabilizer.
Grip
The improved grip design eliminated the hand torque and improved accuracy. There are only a couple of narrow side plats on the grip of the riser with Bear written on them. The width and the angle of the grip are excellent. It feels comfortable and is well-proportioned in the hand. This is a thin bow that’s ideal for small hands. With it being bare metal, it could get cold if it was taken outside on a cool day.
String Suppressors
The Bear Apprentice III comes with a new string suppression system that has a standard string stop that will cut out noise and vibration. This helps a lot when the bow is set to the higher draw weights, and it doesn’t hurt to set it at a lower weight either.
Eccentric System
The cam system on this bow is excellent and highly adjustable in the draw length. This bow’s new dual G3 growth cams are the third generation on the Apprentice bows and are now adjustable in half-inch increments. They’ll go from fifteen to twenty-seven-inch draw lengths. This large range can find a way to fit nearly any youth that could shoot a bow, as well as teenagers.
It’s simple to adjust and there’s no need for the bow press or any additional modules to change the draw length. This user-friendly feature is excellent for partners who have children who are maturing. There is a seventy percent let-off that helps younger archers get the feel of shooting a bigger bow. There’s a twenty pound to sixty-pound adjustment in draw weight.
Draw Cycle
The draw cycle of the Apprentice II has a good feeling with most of the weight at the front. There’s only a slight amount of recoil, but when it’s fully drawn, this bowl feels as if it’s fastened to the back and it’s very comfortable. This feeling is good for beginning shooters. The back wall is not spongy or rock solid but has the right feel to it. A stabilizer could reduce the little bit of recoil this bow has. It could also improve the balance if it’s too heavy for a smaller child. A carbon rod has a slide cable guard that works well for this type of bow.
In Conclusion
Any youth that has the desire and will to shoot a bow will love the Bear Apprentice. Along with the ease to shoot and the good feel it has, it also has the ability to show a youth what an adult bow will be like one day. The large adjustment range and the light weight make it great for any shooter. So overall, it’s an excellent choice for a youth.
The Diamond Atomic bow is perfect for getting kids into shooting bows. Many parents out there have bought their sons and daughters this perfect bow for youths and raved about how wonderful it was for their children! Just take a look at some of the pros of this bow:
Adjustability ranges are excellent
Great for young shooters getting into the sport
Comes equipped with everything that’s necessary to operate the bow
Adjustment is marked
The limbs won’t back out completely
The Diamond Atomic has a lot of adjustments and is designed to change with the person who’s shooting it. With the draw weight adjustment between six and twenty-nine pounds, the Atomic is an excellent choice for those who are just beginning their bow excursion. The limb bolts don’t back out, so there isn’t a need to worry about adjusting the limbs too low. It also comes with an adjustable draw length that’s easily changed by rotating from twelve to twenty-four inches using the quick reference marks for exact movements. Weighing just shy of two pounds and measuring twenty-four inches AtA, this is a perfect bow for beginners. Some might have a hard time with the two hundred dollar investment, but the bow is of high quality and will grow with the child that’s learning how to use it.
Finish
The Atomic is available in Blue and Black Graphite Limb for boys and a Black and Pink Graphite for girls. Both of them look awesome and are in no way designed to look like a child’s bow. The Atomic is the real deal, and the finish looks just like an adult’s version.
Factory Installed
For just $199, the Atomic also comes fully equipped with everything it needs to be shot. It has a three pin sight, a two piece three arrow quiver, a full capture rest, and three carbon arrows. The once piece quiver might have been better for a youth bow because a two-piece has to remain attached at all times, but it’s still adequate. The only thing missing from the package is the release and the target. It’s really an outstanding value.
Riser
The rise is meant to look just like the adult version. Diamond did a great job when they machined the bow to look as real as possible. The riser does have a spot for a front mounting stabilizer, and also for a two-piece quiver.
Grip
The composite grip is nothing to write home about. It tapers somewhat to aid in the right hand placement, and will more than likely be warmer than the riser in the cool fall weather, but it doesn’t really stand out as being something great. Shooters are able to put their hand properly on the grip for good accuracy, but something about it doesn’t quite feel comfortable for some.
Limbs
The limbs are compact in make and feature some simple graphics. They’re adjustable from two to twenty-nine pounds and have an anti-backout system to prevent the user from being injured by the limb bolts being too loose. This adjustment range is great for getting kids started and growing with them.
Eccentric System
The cam system has a twelve-inch draw length adjustment that measures from twelve to twenty-four inches with a rotating module and doesn’t need a press. There is also the option of the Atomic to be set for a no let-off if that’s desired. The dual cam technology is easily drawn and holds at full draw to help boost confidence in young shooters. The cam also has markers for adjustment for easy reference.
Draw Cycle
The nice thing about the Diamond Atomic is that it has the ability to change easily to fit a variety of shooters. The cam is smooth drawing and easily held. For a beginner’s bow, the Atomic has everything and does everything you’d want it to do.
Usage Scenarios
It’s a starter bow and an excellent one. Kids who are able to pull over thirty pounds have a lot more options available to them. But, those who are starting out have fewer options to choose from, and kids who want a bow that’s like their parents will love the Atomic.
In Conclusion
As a starter bow, the Atomic is hard to beat. Archery is an excellent sport and the experience of passing on this tradition from one to another is one of the best parts of it. The Atomic is designed to look like an adult compound bow and does that extremely well. It’s adjustable for just about any shooter, and it will grow with the shooter as they age.
Overall, the Diamond Atomic is an excellent choice for kids!
Shooting a crossbow is a very different experience from shooting a recurve or compound bow. The setup of the crossbow in preparation for shooting differs quite a bit from the way an archer would set up for taking a shot with a compound or recurve bow. There are several methods for cocking the device, and archers sometimes use special accessories to make the shots easier and more accurate.
Using a Cocking Device
When it comes time to cock the bow, there are three methods for you to do so: With your hands (manually), a rope-cocking device, or a crank. When using just your hands to pull up on both sides of the string up in order to cock, it can lead to issues with shooting accuracy. When cocking your crossbow by hand, you will put extra tension on one or the other bow limbs. To avoid this issue, you can get a rope-cocking device that is made up of a thick rope and a plastic handle on each end of the rope.
The rope-cocking device goes around the back portion of the crossbow’s rail and the handles are brought together so they can be pulled simultaneously. You can then stand up, place your foot inside the crossbow’s foot stirrup located at the uppermost end of the bow, and pull up on each handle at the same time. The bowstring will begin to slide back into the draw position. The shot is ready when you hear a clicking sound suggesting the bowstring is locked into position.
Once you hear the clicking sound, your crossbow is cocked. What’s more, the contemporary crossbows of today have automatic safety locking mechanisms. The automatic feature requires that you move the bow to fire and move the safety forward each time you cock your bow. Archers often prefer using a cocking tool simply because it eliminates the need to deal with 50 percent of the deadweight one might otherwise have to deal with in the absence of such a convenient tool.
In lieu of cocking the crossbow by hand or with a rope cocking device, you can also make use of the crank cocking tool. Basically, the tool is a winch that you can mount to the crossbow’s stock. The winch helps you cock the bow by winding a small handle on the crank. There are different models of crank cocking devices, some of which are integrated into the crossbow in question while others serve as an add-on device. The use of this tool requires less than ten pounds of force in order to crank the handle, so this makes it easy for you to use the higher powered crossbows if you desire to do so. Additionally, if you are physically disabled, a crank cocking device can make it so you can still enjoy hunting with your crossbow.
Pros and Cons of Crossbow Cocking Options
If you decide to cock the crossbow manually, it means you do not have to bring or carry extra devices with you when you are crossbow hunting or target practicing. The downside to manually cocking the bow, of course, is that you will need to be able to handle the dead weight when you pull back and up on the bow string. What’s more, when you are cocking the bow in this manner, you have to do so by pulling back the string absolutely straight with the middle of the bowstring remaining aligned with the bow’s triggering unit. If you accidently put too much stress on one side of the bow or the other, it can through off the accuracy of your shot and cause the arrow to veer to the left or right.
When considering the pros and cons of rope cocking, it is clear that the elimination of some 75 pounds of dead weight in the drawing back of the bow string definitely serves as a perk. The con associated with this bow cocking technique include the fact that it takes a bit longer to get the bow ready for firing when using the rope cocking method. The same disadvantage can be identified in the use of the hand crank, and the cost of such a cocking device is a bit expensive as well.
Setting up the Bolt (Arrow)
You need to ensure you have the correct arrow spine and length for your crossbow before you load an arrow for firing. At the end of the arrow, there are three vanes (plastic pieces that are reminiscent of the feathers once used on wooden arrows). One vane has a plain color while the other two vanes have an unusual color. You want to line up the one vane that is different from the other two with the rail on your crossbow. The vane should fit right into the rail area of you crossbow. Loading the crossbow in this way will increase your accuracy and ensure the bow delivers a consistent shot.
Once the arrow is in the rail, you have to slide it all the way back so that the arrow nock is touching the bowstring. Visually inspect the arrow once more and ensure it is aligned with the crossbow rail correctly. The bolt should fit inside the rail snuggly.
Monopod/Bipod Usage
Monopod and bipods are accessories you can use to improve the stability and accuracy of your crossbow shots. A Monopod is about three feet high and consists of a metal pole that looks similar to a large dowsing rod. At the end of the rod are two small rods creating a letter “Y” formation. The monopod serves as a solid rest for the crossbow as you are firing. You can hold the straight up against and perpendicular the ground with one hand while you are sitting or crouching. A portion of the bottom of the crossbow, the foreguard, rests in the “Y-shaped portion” of the monopod. While steadying the monopod, with your hand, you can use the other hand to fire the crossbow.
Before taking your shot, you should adjust your sight. The stock of the compound bow presses snugly against the area between the shoulder and collarbone.
The crossbow is likely to have an extremely light trigger. To avoid a dry fire, you will want to make sure you develop your trigger control: This comes with time and practice. Once the crossbow is in position, you can view your target through your sight. When you have your target in your sights, all you have left to do is to pull the crossbow’s trigger.
Cautions
Never treat your crossbow as if it were a toy. You must always take what you are doing seriously when you are holding a weapon. To that end, never point the end of your crossbow at any person or animal, whether it is loaded with an arrow or not.
Before firing your bow, always check for clearance. Make sure that your hands are free from any part of the moving arrow that might strike you as it passes from the bow into the air. Make sure there are no people or animals in your path. Make sure you are not standing too close to a tree or another object in the environment that might come in contact with the crossbow’s limbs.
Do not fire your crossbow when it is not loaded with an arrow. It can break your bow. Additionally, make certain the bolts you do load in the device are of the correct weight. The latter actions will definitely ensure the longevity of your equipment. Make sure that when you are done using the bow, you remove the arrow from the rail on the device as well.
When you make the decision to learn archery and you decide to invest in your own bow, you will want to head to the sporting goods shop with an understanding of your draw length. It is important that you record the draw length accurately as it will influence the size of the bow you need to buy. It also influences the size of arrows you will need to purchase for use with your bow. Whether you are using a recurve or compound bow is really of no consequence: You will still need an accurate measurement of your draw length. What’s more, since compound bows are made with pre-established draw lengths, if you’re in the market for a compound bow, you’ll need to know that all important length of the draw.
It is vital that when you buy a bow for the first time that you get one that accurately works with your physical needs. Buying a bow in a hurry because you’re eager to get started shooting can end with negative consequences as it can influence the accuracy of your shot, the level of comfort you experience while using the bow, and in a worst-case scenario, it may even lead to an unwarranted injury. It is far better to take a few minutes time with the help of another to record your draw length before you shop.
Full Draw: Form and Stance
Full draw is a position you take when you are ready to release an arrow from your bow. Hold the bow with your non-dominant hand and in front of you while keeping the bow parallel to the ground. Imagine a target you want to shoot and keep the side of your body facing that target. Your feet should straddle an imagined line that runs all the way to the target. One foot should be a bit more forward than the other should. With your dominant hand, take the bowstring and pull back and slightly upward with your arm until your hand is at your face and the string touches your nose, cheek, and mouth. The string is tense and this full draw stance is your positioning moments before the arrow release.
Measuring Full Draw Method #1: Measuring Your Arms Outstretched
Standing up straight with your hands out to each side, keep your arms parallel to the ground. Keep your arms in a comfortable position. Do not lock your elbows. Do not overstretch to the left or right. Keep your shoulders back and your head up with the bottom of your chin parallel to the ground. Have your assistant take a tape measure to track and record the distance from the tip of your middle finger on one hand to the tip of the middle finger on your opposing hand. The figure collected is then divided by 2.5 to get a quotient that equals your full draw measurements. For instance, if you are the distance from one hand to another is 70 inches, and then you divide 70 by 2.5 to get a full draw length measurement of 28 inches.
There is a spin on this formula where the mathematical calculations vary, but you still end up with close to the same result. Some archers choose to take a full measurement from one hand to another and take 15 from the sum. The sum is then divided by 2 instead of 2.5. For instance, with a measurement of 70 inches from one hand to another, if the archer takes away 15, the remainder of 55 is divided by 2 for a quotient and full draw measurement of 27.5 inches.
Measuring Full Draw Method #2: Chest to Hand Measurement
An alternative method for taking a full draw measurement is to stand straight with your arms out to your sides. Have your assistant take the tape measure to record the distance from your chest’s center to the wrist of the hand on one of your fully extended arms. The measurement should start where the button on your shirts would appear. Essentially, this is just a different positioning of half the full arm measurement, and by foregoing the measurement of the hand, you are making allowances for the few extra inches that are not included in full draw measurements.
Measuring Full Draw Method #3: Fist to Mouth Measurement
Unlike the first two full draw measurement methods described above, the fist to mouth measurement does not require any division. All you have to do is to have someone make one simple measurement. Position yourself so you are standing in front of a wall at about arm’s length away. For this measuring tactic, you are going to pretend you are holding a bow in the air. With one arm outstretched and formed into a fist (as if you are holding a bow in the air in front of you), rest your fist against the wall. Keeping your arm in position, take the other arm and draw back your hand to your cheek and mouth where your hand would be when in full draw. Remain in this imagined full draw position and consider your posture as you do so. Have someone measure from your mouth to your fist that is up against the wall to get your full draw measurements.
The Ideal Measurement
Many compound bow owners have a tendency to set their equipment with an excessive draw length. The incorrect length leads to a host of issues, including shooting inaccuracies, issues with the archer’s form, and the archer may be subjected to a the painful and very much undesired sting from the slap of a bowstring against the arm. Having your draw length correct ensures your comfort and will allow for ease of equipment use. A good tip to remember is if you are ever in any doubt as to what measurement to set your full draw length at on a compound bow, always opt for a draw that is less than a bit more. On many bows, it is pretty easy to make a simple adjustment to the draw if you need to tweak the settings.
Draw Length and Arrow Speed
It is important for you to remember that a longer draw length results in a longer power stroke for your bow. When you have a longer draw length, it adds more to the power and speed of your shot. In fact, for every extra inch of draw length you have, you get another 10 feet per second when it comes to the velocity of the arrows you are shooting. With this notion in mind, consider that in archery speed is an important factor to the archer. Full draw length determines how fast the arrow moves. If you have a draw length of 28 inches, this equals 280 fps (191 mph) in terms of speed. Likewise, if you have a full draw of 32 inches, this equals 320 fps (218 mph) in terms of shooting speed. The latter figures are important as manufacturers rate their bows based on standards established by the International Bowhunting Organization (IBO). An IBO speed of 300 fps (205 mph) or less is a bow with a slow velocity while a bow with an IBO of 340 fps (232 mph) is an ultrafast shot.
The three chief things influencing the speed of a fired arrow are arrow mass, draw length, and draw weight. The lightest arrows fly the furthest. The bow stores extra power when the draw weight is higher, and the draw length also contributes to the amount of power a bow stores up before the shot.
Your Exact Draw Length or Thereabouts
By now, you have come to understand the importance an accurate draw length. If you noticed a bit of a difference in the measuring results from different techniques, you may wonder how accurate you need to be when calculating your draw length. Give or take a half inch to an inch in either direction is fine, as long as you are comfortable when you are shooting the bow. Your comfort when using the equipment is one of the most important factors to your success in any archery endeavors.
Mastering the use of a recurve bow takes practice and patience. Before you can begin learning how to shoot a recurve bow, you need to be familiar with the structure of the bow and the bow parts. Once you familiarize yourself with the various bow parts, you can have an easier time understanding guides and instructions explaining how to use the bow and bow shooting techniques. Before going into the steps for shooting a recurve bow, let’s examine the anatomy of a recurve bow, the different parts of the bow, and the purpose of each part so you can have a greater understanding of how recurve bows work.
Recurve Bow Anatomy
A recurve bow is shaped like the letter D in reverse when you hold it in your hand and aim it at a target. The bowstring runs from an upper limb straight down and tightly to the lower limb. At the end of each limb is an arrow nock or self nock (depending on the bow’s design) where the bowstring fits tightly into place. The body of the bow has a recurve design, hence its name. The working limbs are affixed to a nonworking handle and grip area called the riser. The working limbs create, by design, a continuous arc that curves from the portion of the riser all the way up to the tip of the limbs. Once the archer braces the bow, the string touches the belly of the upper and lower limbs.
In the riser area of the bow, there is a sight window, an arrow self (for resting the body of the arrow when the arrow is put into the nock position), and the grip. About 1/8 of an inch above the arrow shelf on the bow string the nocking point where the arrow nock is attached to the string.
Draw Weight and Length
Now that you know the basic parts of the recurve bow, you need to consider both draw weight and length. The term draw weight refers to the amount of force you will have to use in order to draw back the bowstring to the anchor point or anchorage. The anchorage/anchor point is the side of your nose, cheek, and mouth, with the arm and elbow pulled all the way back. The best draw weight when using a bow that requires about 75 percent of your total strength to pull it back. As a newbie, you might do well with a lighter bow so you can reduce the likelihood of muscle strain or injury. Consider that a bow with a heavier weight will tire your muscles more quickly, and this could minimize the amount of practice time you can get in target shooting. If you are a youth, you might also benefit from a lighter draw weight.
Draw length is a factor used to consider the arrow length you need. For this, you will need the help of another to assist you in measuring the distance from the tip of one middle finger to the opposing middle finger on the opposite hand when you are standing with your arms parallel to the ground. Your body forms the letter “T” for the purposes of this measurement. Make sure your back is straight, feet are slightly parted, and your shoulders are back while you are being measured. The measurement is divided by 2.5 to find out the draw length. You can add up to one inch extra to get the correct arrow lengths for your needs.
Selecting Arrow Weight
The weight of the arrow will determine how the arrow flies and the amount of penetration the arrow is capable of achieving. Many arrows are crafted out of carbon or fiberglass materials so they remain quite light. Aluminum arrows are a bit heavier, so are better when hunting animals because the arrow has a better flesh penetrating potential. For target shooting, fiberglass and carbon arrows remain ideal options. You can get arrows made out of wood and copper as well, but these arrows are prone to breaking and splintering. Copper arrows are costly as well.
Equipment Extras
You may not think you need accessories, and ultimately you don’t. You can forgo accessories and simply master recurve bow shooting with a bow, arrow, arrowheads, and your own skills. However, you can really enhance your shooting experience with an investment in some simple accessories. One highly recommended extra is an arm guard. The piece of gear is placed on your forearm of the arm that you hold the bow with, and it helps protect your skin from the backlash of the bow string. Likewise, a finger tab can protect your fingers from wear and tear during practice sessions and hunting. Other shooting extras you might want to consider include a clicker: A tool that lets you know when the arrow is drawn back far enough to offer you an ideal pull. A sight can help improve your aim. Finally, you can create your own target with a couple of hay bales, or you can invest in an archery target to create your own makeshift shooting range right in your back yard.
Shooting: Stance and Form
When you are preparing your stance, you need to have your feet should width apart as you straddle the imaginary shooting line. The side of your body will face the target: Your head, shoulders, torso, and hips are all perpendicular to the target. This is when you take up an arrow, nock it by attaching the nock to the bow string, and then elevate the bow into draw position.
Note that you are standing perpendicular to the target. If you are left hand dominant than your right hip is facing the target first, and vice versa if you are right-hand dominant. If you are ambidextrous and comfortable shooting either way, it makes no difference which side you choose to put perpendicular to the target in question. Keep your posture straight and do not lean in or away from the target. As you straddle the invisible shooting line, do so while keeping your feet firmly in place. You may want to put one first about an inch ahead of the other. When you are ready, turn your head toward the target in question. Keep the rest of your body in the same position and only turn your head.
Make sure you are holding up your bow with your non-dominant hand. Keep the bow firmly in the air. Keep your gripping wrist relaxed and do not grip the bow too tensely: It will affect the accuracy of your shot. With the arrow in the nock, the rest of the arrow should be perpendicular to the ground; you need to place the end of the arrow shaft on the arrow rest.
Keep the arm holding up your bow locked at the elbow: Doing this protects your forearm during the shot and makes it easier for you to draw back the bow to full draw.
Before doing anything else, double check and make sure your path of the trajectory is free of people, animals, and other undesired targets. Using the muscles in your back instead of those in the upper arms, pull back the string to the anchor point. Hold into position and use the sight on your bow (if you have one) to take aim. If you do not have a sight, simply close your non-dominant eye and take aim by viewing your target through your dominant eye.
Shooting the Bow
You do not have to pull back the string to release it. When you are ready, simply pull your fingers from the string as gently as you possibly can; this will ensure that your shot remains straight. You are simply relaxing your fingers and letting them fall from the string rather than letting the string go or pulling back more and letting go. Remain in position until the arrow you have fired strikes its target: This gives the released arrow the time it needs to be released from the string, accelerate off and away from your bow, and it prevents accidental disruption of the shot you’ve made.
Practice
Practicing your shot is what will perfect your shot. By repeating the same actions again and again, you’ll strengthen the back muscles you need to make a good shot with the bow and arrow. You will also improve your stance, concentration, aim, and release techniques.
If an individual is new to the art of archery and has recently purchased or plans to purchase a compound bow, the archer will want to get high-quality arrows to use with the hunting/archery equipment. A number of considerations go into choosing arrows for a compound bow, all of which are defined by individual need. An archer has to figure out arrow length through full draw measurements. Along with arrow length, the archer must consider arrow weight. Finally, the purpose the archer is using the arrows for, whether target practice, tournament participation, or the actual hunting of prey, plays a role in what arrows are most appropriate for use in a given situation.
Arrow Length & Full Draw Measurements
The length an archer requires is different for every individual. To determine the length of the arrows an archer needs, it is necessary to take up the bow and a long arrow with a nock on it. Someone has to assist the archer in measuring the length of the arrow once the archer establishes full draw.
The archer then holds the bow up with a non-dominant hand. The next step involves placing the nock up against the D loop on the bowstring and pressing it into position until a click is heard (this is the nocking point). The length of the arrow, also called the shaft, is extended forward, and placed on the arrow rest that is perpendicular to the string and accessed just a bit above the bow’s handle within the area of the bow riser.
The archer’s draw helps in determining the arrow length. It then becomes necessary for the archer to draw back the string and arrow to a full draw: The bow string is at full tension; the archer’s elbow locks back, and the bowstring with arrow nock locked into place are stretched back far enough to touch up against the cheek, nose, and mouth of the archer. The full draw occurs on the shooter’s dominant side since the non-dominant hand is holding the bow parallel to the ground and straight out from the chest. Even if the archer does not have an arrowhead on the arrow, it is important to keep the bow in full draw pointed away from other people.
With the bow in full draw, the individual assisting the archer uses the tape measure to determine the length of the arrow. The assistant measures by starting at the nocking point near the face of the archer and measures to the position on the bow where the deepest section of the grip is located. This is where the arrow meets and crosses the bow’s riser. An archer can find this point by eyeing it as it is about one inch away from the tip of the arrow or the archer use a bow square to ensure the greatest accuracy. The measurement does not take into consideration the measurement of broadheads or field points.
The person taking measurements can mark this spot on the arrow. After full draw measurements, the archer can set the bow facing down before attempting to remove the arrow from the nocking point. Now the archer can measure from the bottommost portion of the nock to the end of the arrow where the archer’s assistant put the mark during the full draw measurement session.
The archer can then shop for arrows based on the final measurements with the consideration of arrows that range anywhere from the exact measurement to one inch longer than the measurement collected. When buying arrows, the location selling the equipment will present the consumer with a chart so the archer can choose the correct arrow length. It will be necessary to add between 0.5 inch and 1.0 inch to the initial full draw measurement. For instance, if the archer has a full draw measurement of 29 inches the correct arrow length is then 29.5 inches to 30 inches in all. Adding the extra half to full inch allows the archer to buy arrows capable of clearing the forward-most section of the bow’s arrow shelf.
Measuring Full Draw without a Bow
An archer can measure full draw in the absence of having a compound bow present. This type of technique is useful if the archer has yet to by a bow for the first time, and would like to make a purchase of a bow and arrows simultaneously. Like the above-mentioned full draw arrow measuring method, the individual will require some assistance from another who can collect the necessary measurements.
First, the archer needs to stand up straight with the arms down at the sides. The shoulders should be back, and the archer will need to have on loose fitting, lightweight attire. The archer can then spreads arms out, one to each side, so that the entire body forms the letter “T.” The archer’s arms remain out, straight, and parallel to the floor. The elbows must remain unlocked. The assistant can take the measurement from the tip of the middle finger on one hand to the tip of the same finger on the opposing hand. The figure noted is then divided by 2.5 inches to determine arrow length. For instance, if the fingertip-to-fingertip measurement is 70 inches, the arrows one will require are at least 28 inches in length. It is a good idea to add 0.5 to 1 inch extra when considering the length of arrows one needs.
Arrow Weight
To know how to choose an arrow weight, one needs to know the draw weight of the bow. In considering the weight of the arrows one chooses, the weight will include the field point, nock, insert, vanes, and the arrow shaft. The ideal weight for arrows one plans to use for practicing with a target is between five and six grain per pound of draw weight. If the bow has 60 pounds of draw, then the weight of the arrows one needs for shooting are 300 to 360 grain.
For hunting purposes, the weight of the arrows will be a bit different. Instead, the archer will need arrows that are six to eight grain per pound of the draw weight. Thus, the arrow should weigh 360 to 480 grain when using the arrows for hunting prey. The arrows used for shooting at targets are lighter than those one would use for shooting at an animal simply because they fly straighter and are, therefore, best in tight shooting areas such as those found in a shooting area. For hunting, an archer relies on heavier bows because their extra weight helps in creating additional kinetic energy. The extra energy lends to the ease of penetrating flesh.
Arrow Material
Some of the most common arrows used for different purposes, such as target shooting and hunting, include arrows made of carbon, aluminum, and wood. Copper arrows are also available but are quite expensive and not necessarily practical. A carbon arrow does not have a lot of bend to it and once it hits something, it will not bend easily: This means this kind of arrow has a greater likelihood of snapping and creating dangerous shards that can injure the archer if the individual is not careful.
Arrows made of wood have been around for hundreds of years. The wood arrows today are for use with lower power recurve bows and long bows. These types of arrows are not good for bows with a higher power recurve or for use with a compound bow since wood is more likely to break. Wood arrows, unlike aluminum or carbon arrows using plastic vanes for flight, use features for flight instead.
Aluminum arrows are a bit heavier than the carbon arrows on the market. The aluminum material makes the arrows less stiff when compared to carbon options, and the arrow is a bit heavier in weight than other arrow alternatives. The aluminum arrows are a great option for the compound bow. They are heavy and longer lasting. The arrows can also be cut to size if necessary.
A recurve bow is made of a curved bow arm and string that, when put together, looks like the letter “D” with the string as the straight down stroke line of the letter and the arch as the bow arm. The bow arm consists of a lower limb and an upper limb. In between both limbs, the site window is present. Directly across from a correctly strung recurve bow is the nocking point where the user of the bow connects the end of the arrow (the nock). Connecting the arrow with a nock allows you give the arrow the appropriate alignment with the bowstring.
The above-mentioned description of a recurve bow is quite terse and basic. Once again, if looking at the bow at a point of rest it looks like the capital letter D. The curved part of the bow has a small part at the top and bottom of each end that curves back slightly in the opposite direction: These sections are the recurves and the areas where there is a single nock on each section for the bowstring’s placement. You will find the bow sight near the sight window and arrow rest midway between the upper limb of the bow arm and the lower limb in the area called the riser/handle. The nocking point is about 1/8 of an inch above the arrow rest that is just above the pivot point and bow grip.
There are different methods for stringing bows. If you are truly interested in learning how to string a recurve bow, it is a good idea to sample different techniques. Doing so can make it easier for you to find the method you are most comfortable using. Whatever method you ultimately decide to use, make sure you examine the condition of your bow, string, and stringing equipment (if you use any) for signs of potential damage, wear, tear, or breakage. Remedy any issues before attempting to string the recurve bow to avoid an injury.
How to String a Recurve Bow by Hand
It is possible to string your recurve bow by hand. Expert archers do not recommend the practice. You might hurt yourself and/or damage your equipment beyond repair. If you should decide to use this method, you must remember the element of risk involved in doing so. Bear in mind that if your bow is heavy this method is difficult to perform. In fact, the heavier the recurve bow is the more difficult stringing it by hand becomes.
Restring or stringing your recurve bow by hand is the Step through Method or Approach. Measuring from nock to nock, you will find a string for a recurve bow is roughly four inches shorter than the recurve bow itself. You have to put the string on backward. As mentioned earlier, examine all the parts you will be working with to rule out potential damage: Examining your bow and string is even more crucial when you are using a dangerous stringing method like the Step Through technique. Position the bottom bowstring loop inside the notch at the upper recurve section of the bow. Position the top bowstring loop over the bow itself, but also under the prefabricated notch.
Beginning with the curve of the bow pointing away from your extremities and remembering that the bowstring will be located on the side nearest to your body, place your leg through the bowstring. Doing this will cause the recurve bow to rest against the opposing foot and it creates tension. Place your hand at the top of your bow as you pull the recurve bow toward your body. You must then slide the bowstring upward and loop it through the recurve bow. To view a safe way to deal with heavy bows during the stringing process, view Scott Casteel’s video below:
Stringing Your Recurve Bow Using a Stringer
Stringers are nylon material: A desirable characteristic leading to their durability. Stringers are quite affordable, but most of all, they serve as a tool for protection against potential self-injury. It is not uncommon to receive an injury from stringing a recurve bow by hand. The string may break free from your grip and snap back at you dangerously and suddenly.
A stringer comes with a weight limitation, so you must ensure you have a stringer that can handle the weight of the recurve bow you are stringing. The recurve stringer will have two loops on it: The left loop is larger and the right loop is a bit smaller. You will slide the upper limb of the bow arm through the larger loop of the two: The arm will fit snuggly within the established groove on a small limb gripper made to wrap around the bow limb. You must slide the mildly pliable limb gripper down the bow limb as far as you can slide it until it moves no further: This is when you have established a solid grip around the bow arm.
Your bowstring will be prefabricated in a similar fashion to the bow stringer design. The recurve bowstring has a larger loop on one end and a smaller loop on the opposing end of the string. Take up the larger loop after affixing the arm gripper. You must put the larger loop of the string through the stringer’s larger loop: That is the string attached to the bow gripper and limb. Take up the same larger loop of your bowstring and position it on the upper limb’s recurve portion in the string slot. You need to bring the string down until it becomes flush to the stringer’s limb gripper.
Once you are done, working the larger loop end of your string, you can begin to do the same thing to the bottom recurve. Take up the small loop at the end of your bowstring and slide the end of the opposing bow limb through the loop. At the same time, you must make the string fit into the groove pre-cut at the recurve. Follow this maneuver by sliding the small loop of your bow stringer’s gripper over the end of the bow you are working with at the time. Again, fit the limb gripper to the bow and slide it down into position until it will move no further.
Once you have aligned, the bowstring as described above, you will need to take up the bowstring by the riser of the bow: The midsection between the upper and lower limbs. With your bowstring facing the floor, bend at the waist and lower your bow to the floor. You must place both of your feet on the bow stringer. Refrain from placing your feet on the bowstring. Once you are in position, take one arm and pull up on the bow while simultaneously taking up the bigger loop of the string and positioning it into the string groove at the end of the recurve. You can view the process through Santa Fe Archery’s video below:
The type of bow stringers you can choose from range in brand, price, color, and style. The stringers on the market today are either the saddle or double pocket style stringers. No matter which one you choose, you will still be using nylon cord. With the double pocket models, the stringer is fitted with a big pocket, crafted of rubber or leather material. When stringing the bow, the pocket slides over the limb tip to hold the bowstring into position while you are stringing the bow. The saddle type stringer differs in that the pocket that you slide over the limb has a surface that is rubber with a dimpled texture.
Sources:
Santa Fe Archery’s video “Archery Tip of the Week: How to Safely String a Recurve Bow.” Youtube. URL: https://youtu.be/bEyYnDtb7eg.
Learning how to shoot a compound bow will take some considerable patience and practice. Unless a person already has significant experience with archery, there are several steps the individual needs to master to shoot a compound bow correctly and with any amount of accuracy. For starters, if an archer is new to using a compound bow, they have to learn all of the parts of the bow and how they work. The bow parts are too much to cover a work of this scope, but for a great introduction into the anatomy of a compound bow, read ShootingTime.com’s “Parts of a Compound Bow.”
Once familiarized with the setup of a bow, it’s time to start practicing bow set up and shooting. Not all archers shoot bows alike. In mastering the steps below you can establish consistency in your form, style, and shooting accuracy.
Mechanical Release
The first step an archer takes when preparing to use a compound bow is to attach a mechanical release. The mechanical release, also called a release aid or “release,” is a piece of equipment that should not be underestimated in its importance. An archer uses the release to ensure the accuracy of his arrow’s trajectory. This piece of equipment is fitted with a trigger and allows the archer to forgo using his fingers to release the arrow. The end result of its use ensures a speedier bowstring release along with a minimal amount of torque placed on the string, thereby lending to greater firing accuracy.
An archer uses Velcro® straps and connects the release to his dominant hand. The release may be black or some are made with camouflage materials. The piece has a section that wraps around the wrist and hand, a small metal arm, and a moveable-like crimp section that grabs onto the bowstring.
Releases are manufactured in different styles: A caliber release is considered among the best options. When the trigger is pulled, it opens both sides at the same time. If the archer uses a caliber release, a loop can be added to the drawstring at a position right at the D Loop or slightly below the nocking point. The loop allows for ease of connection between the release and the bowstring. The loop, when pulled back does not establish an undesired angle and keeps the bowstring perpendicular to the arrow. When the archer pulls back the caliber release, the individual can pull the trigger with a mere motion of the finger: Doing so releases the crimp from the loop on the bowstring so that the arrow is also released.
There are three types of releases, with the caliper release most preferred over the t (Thumb) release, and the back tension. The thumb switch has a lot of moving parts making it difficult to master. It is easier to learn how to use than a back tension release. While the back tension releases are quite simple in terms of structure, the pieces are also quite difficult to use. Whatever release you choose will take practice to master.
A release is not a necessary piece of equipment since a compound bow can be fired with ease by using the fingers. Many archers prefer to use a release in an effort to thwart an unintended discharge of the arrow from the bow. The release also serves as a tool that minimizes finger discomfort. Using a release has myriad benefits. The archer will run a lower risk of dry firing and causing unintended equipment damage or self-injury. Using a mechanical release will also lend to the consistency of release. A release aid with a wrist strap serves as a way of balancing the tension produced by the pulled back bowstring between the fingers and arm muscles.
Releases with wrist triggers are the most common and are ideal for recreational shooting and hunting. Handheld T-handled releases take more finger strength to use and are more commonly used for hunting from a tree stand or when taking part in archery tournaments. Check out this Howcast video on how to put on a bow release for more information:
Nocking an Arrow
Nocking the arrow is a simple process. A nocked arrow contacts the bow at two points, the rest, and the string. This ensures that at no point during the shooting process does the arrow contact any other surface, which would send it off course.
Begin by placing the arrow on (or through) the rest. If it is a “biscuit” style rest like the one in the photo, the arrow will slide through the bristles and seat its self. With any other arrow rest, the arrow will sit atop the rest. Many archers prefer the “biscuit” style because the risk of the arrow falling off the rest is eliminated.
The nock is the portion of the arrow that attaches to the string at the nocking point. When an arrow is nocked properly, it will make contact with the compound bow in two places: The string and the rest. A properly nocked arrow is imperative as it ensures the arrow does not come into contact with any other surface or part that might otherwise deflect the direction of the arrow’s trajectory. Just above the grip of the bow is an arrow rest. The archer places an arrow through or on the rest (depending on the bow’s design). If the bow is fitted with a biscuit-style arrow rest, the arrow naturally seats itself when the archer slides the arrow through the arrow rest’s bristles. With other arrow rests, the arrow sits right on top of the rest and may fall from its position: This fact alone makes the bristle-style arrow rests more desirable.
Arrows are fitted with colorful vanes or plastic fins: These same components are imitations of fletchings made from turkey or goose feathers. On an arrow, there are three vanes, one of which is the “cock” vane or feather that rests at a 90-degree angle from the nock. The cock vane/feather is often the most colorful and vivid. The vane is also nocked so its shot remains uninterrupted by undesired contact with the bow.
The arrow should rest about 1/8 of an inch over the precise perpendicular position. Some arrows feature four fletchings, all of which are symmetrical, and so there is no special positioning of the vanes in question. When using arrows with three vanes, the archer makes sure the vane with the most vibrant colors is pointing upward. The archer then takes the end of the arrow and the plastic, pre-grooved nock, and lines it up with the compound bowstring. The nock is pressed back into the bowstring until a clicking sound is heard. If using a mechanical release with a D loop in the bowstring, the nock is centered on the string along the backside of the D-shaped loop: This is called the nocking point.
Establishing the Center Shot
Next, the center shot must be established. The archer must position the arrow in the center of the power stroke of the string: The string travel position between full draw and resting draw. The arrow must remain in front of the bowstring as the string moves forward in a straight line. Thus, the bow and bowstring must be aligned. The string is aligned with the center of the bow riser, limbs Once this is accomplished, the archer has established the center shot. For more information, see this video:
Proper Form
The way an archer holds the bow and the archer’s stance are important. How the archer stands in relation to where his target is located: This is archery stance and form. The archer must stand perpendicular to the selected target. The archer’s shoulder should be aimed at the target with feet shoulder-width apart. One of the shooter’s feet should be positioned a bit more forward than the other. The stance needs to be balanced and enough clearance needs to be present along the archer’s chest and bow arm.
The archer will begin with the bow in front of the body and with his fingers on the bowstring in a resting position. The shooter loads the bow with an arrow from the resting position. Before loading the compound bow, the archer always makes sure that no one is in the way or in the direct line of the bow’s path of trajectory: This helps in avoiding the possibility of accidental injury. Once in resting position, the archer can remove one arrow from the quiver and positioning the nock against the bowstring and listens for the “click.” The other end of the arrow is placed on the arrow rest. The arrow is nocked. With the arrow nocked, it’s a good time to attach the mechanical release while holding the trigger in a position that will prevent accidental firing. The center shot is established.
The Draw & Release
An archer draws up the bow so the arm holding the bow up is parallel to the earth. He pulls the drawstring straight back bringing the string toward the face, jaw, and ear while also pushing the bow out with the hand he is using to hold up the bow. An effort to rely on one’s back muscles over the arm muscles is needed, as it makes for smoother shots and a reduction in muscular strain and fatigue. In the draw position, the hand should rest lightly around the bow. Over-gripping the bow leads to excess torque and potential misfiring.
The archer must draw the string to the cheek: This is known as the anchor point. When shooting a compound bow it will take some practice, but the archer must learn how to draw the bowstring back to the same position every time the bow is used. To ensure the accuracy of the shot, archers often allow two parts of the face to touch the bowstring when it is drawn back: the nose and cheek. After achieving the appropriate stance, the shooter can align the bow’s sight on the selected target and slowly squeeze the trigger of the mechanical release. The archer will also have to follow through on the shot taken: This is achieved by remaining focused on the target ahead. If you manage to get a tight arrow pattern with repetitious shots, it means you’ve got the art of shooting a compound down to a science! For more information on the stance and the draw of a compound bow, view the following video by Colorado Outdoor Magazine:
The Martin Tiger bow is for youths between the ages of four to eight years old. It’s an excellent, lightweight bow, which is imperative for younger children. It’s considered one of the safest bows available on the market when it comes to children, has a built-in, adjustable sight, and doesn’t need the draw length adjusted. This bow is very affordable, so it’s perfect for kids who are just starting to get into the sport!
This bow has been manufactured for over ten years now and comes in two different styles. The original style began before 2007 and comes with the Mini Z-cam, and the new Martin Tiger, manufactured in 2008 to the present day, comes with the T-Pro cam. While both of them are designed for small children, they’re different in terms of specifications, design, and suitable ages. This review is going to concentrate on the older version of the bow.
Professional Review
As already mentioned, the Martin Tiger is an excellent bow for children between the ages of four and eight years old and is considered one of the safest bows on the market. The bow is outfitted with a shoot-through machined plastic riser that’s sophisticated and reliable, even if it’s not made from aluminum. Because it comes with a shoot-through riser, both left and right handed children are able to shoot this bow. In addition, it comes with a built-in, adjustable sight with one pin, which is nice because you don’t need a separate sight for this bow then.
Safety
Experts and parents both agree that the new Martin Tiger is one of the safest bows on the market due to the riser design. The arrow capturing shoot-through system keeps the arrow facing the right direction and prevents the arrow from falling when the bow is moved from side to side or up and down.
Draw Adjustments
It’s imperative that you know that the limbs are attached to the riser without using the usual limb pockets and limb bolts. Because of this, the draw weight is adjusted differently than the average bow. Specifically, it’s made by loosening the slip knot and moving it to one of the three knots that are available that correspond to the draw weights of ten, fifteen, and twenty pounds. The knot closest to the upper wheel is utilized to set the draw weight to ten pounds, and the next two knots are used to set them to fifteen and twenty pounds respectively. It’s recommended that you use a bow press to compress the limbs before the draw weight is changed.
Eccentric System
The eccentric system on this newer bow is flexible due to the bow being able to be shot at any draw length from fourteen to twenty-four inches without an adjustment or an extra module. The T-Pro cam system gives the bow a let off of forty percent. The design helps to bridge that gap between the versatility of not having to adjust the draw length and a normal let-off.
Ages
Because of its minimum draw weight of ten pounds and low mass weight, the new Martin Tiger is suitable for children who are in the smaller range. That’s why it’s best for the kids in the age range of four to eight. This range is still an estimate, though. While it’s good for the majority of children, it’s not unusual for a child to be smaller or bigger than average, so some can begin shooting this one earlier while others might still have to wait.
General Public’s Reviews
Reviewers on Amazon agree that this bow is excellent for children under the age of ten. They state that the bow comes with everything that’s needed in order to operate it, and Martin Archery has excellent customer service if anything happens to go wrong. Parents agree the bow is safe, effective for beginners to the sport, and their children all love it!
Conclusion
The Martin Tiger is an affordable youth bow that’s best for small children. It has been manufactured for more than ten years with two different styles, the original with the Min Z cam that was made before 2007 and the newer T-Pro Cam style that was manufactured after 2008. While both are suitable for small children, the newer one is even more so. The new modifications to the Tiger make it one of the best out there for kids in terms of safety.
In addition, this bow has received a lot of positive feedback from many parents who say that their children enjoy shooting the bow, and there’s nothing better than having kids enjoy the sport! While the factory strings could be of better quality and the draw weight adjustment is coarse-grain, overall, this is an affordable and suitable bow for small kids. If you want to see someone shoot this bow, check out this video:
Many of the links that you'll find on Archer Den link to products on third party sites. If you choose to purchase a product after going through one of these links, we will receive a small sales commission at no extra cost to you. We thank you for supporting our business!
The bow is just about four and a half pounds, which is pretty light for this powerful of a bow. The size is around forty-one and a half inches AtA, and the draw length is twenty-nine inches so it’s not too hard to use. Once you get the hang of it, you can shoot arrows without too much effort. The let-off will relieve most of the weight and tension, which will allow the shooter to shoot further without feeling tired after a few shots.
Mastering the use of a recurve bow takes practice and patience. Before you can begin learning how to shoot a recurve bow, you need to be familiar with the structure of the bow and the bow parts. Once you familiarize yourself with the various bow parts, you can have an easier time understanding guides and instructions explaining how to use the bow and bow shooting techniques. Before going into the steps for shooting a recurve bow, let’s examine the anatomy of a recurve bow, the different parts of the bow, and the purpose of each part so you can have a greater understanding of how recurve bows work.
